Loire Chenin Blanc
Gracefully meandering at the pace of a snail would probably best describe the flow of the River Loire this summer given the heatwave experienced across most of Northern Europe.
The source of France’s longest river starts west of the Rhône vineyards at Mont Gerbier de Jonc, flows north and heads into the Atlantic at Saint-Nazaire.
From a white wine perspective there are three main sections.
The Central Vineyards sit in the middle of this 625 mile river and are best known for Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé from the Sauvignon Blanc grape.
Around the mouth as it flows into the Atlantic, they grow the Melon de Bourgogne grape, producing the perfect foil for Crevettes Grise, Langoustine and Spider Crab: the light and delicately acidic, Muscadet.
Between these two regions sits the homeland of the Chenin Blanc grape. The regions of Anjou-Saumur and Touraine straddle all of the region’s wonderful châteaux that were the home of the Kings of France for centuries.
Here this grape can produce complex white wines from bone dry to lusciously sweet, as well as being the mainstay of the regions Méthode Champenoise, or Méthode Traditional as it is now known, sparkling wines that can age and age in the caves that were created when the châteaux were built.
The Chenin Blanc can have considerable more complexity than Chardonnay, can age for a significant number of years, and works to perfection alongside wild mushroom risottos, rich chicken chasseurs, and spicy coronation chickens.
A larger than usual panel congregated in the garden just over a week ago to taste nine wines from Berrys, Yapp Brothers, and Lea & Sandeman, with prices ranging from £15 to just over £40 - full list below.
Four wines stood out, with one being everyone’s favourite. I decided to taste these four wines again on Tuesday, opening new bottles, just to make sure that the chatter and banter had not distracted us from their assessment.
Vouvray - Domaine Vincent Carême, 2020
Berrys - £19.95 - case price.
If you were serving bruschetta with a savoury topping then the faintest hint of residual sugar in this well made wine would work extremely well. Although the label clearly states ‘sec’, there is a smidgeon of a honeyed tone that served as an aperitif before lunch or dinner would be a great start to any meal. A domaine only established in 1999, the skills of Vincent Carême are evident in this well-honed and very drinkable wine. Since tasting this wine back in August, the vintage has changed to 2021 from 2020. It will be tasted again, but I anticipate that it will not be far away from the note above.
Saumur - Chenin du Puy, Frédéric Mabileau, 2018
Berrys - £28.50 - case price.
Tasting it again, I can see why everyone liked this wine. Straight from the fridge, it needs a few moments to open up. Complex, with oodles of texture, it slowly reveals elegance and refinement. Ripe apples, stone fruit flavours of peach and apricot, with hints of light lemon acidity and an underlying chalkiness that leaves a perfectly balanced and long finish. As the Berry’s web site states, ‘A wine of remarkable concentration and complexity which would give many village or even Premier Cru White Burgundy wines a run for their money’. Tasting it alongside Ottolenghi’s ‘Baked orzo puttanesca’ from his Test Kitchen book, was a delight.
Montlouis-sur-Loire - Berger Frères 'Les Plantes Baron' Sec 2019
Yapp - £16.95 - case price.
The tasting note from Yapp describes this wine perfectly, ‘clean, green apple and grapefruit aromas precede a zesty, citric palate. This excellent example of Chenin Blanc has a bright, refreshing acidity and crisp, dry finish’. This is very good value for money and alongside a rich chicken dish would be an excellent partnership.
Anjou - Zerzilles, Château de Plaisance 2020
Lea & Sandeman - £42.95 - sadly, now out of stock 28-Nov-22
It is difficult to know where to start with this wine. Exceptionally well made with longevity as the cornerstone of its DNA. Vibrant, energetic, concentrated are some of the words used in my tasting note. However, it needs time and leaving it to evolve in the bottle for an hour or so brought out its long-term potential. Buying a couple of cases of the Chenin du Puy listed above is not a tricky decision, but this wine needs consideration as I do not think it will show its real characteristics until 2030 onwards. Six bottles hidden in the corner of your cellar with a clear note stating drink on a special date in the early 2030s would deliver an exceptional result for that important lunch or dinner.
Case prices quoted in all of the above.
What a delight to visit a grape that we do not come across too often. The four wines listed above are perfect examples of what this largely unfashionable region is currently producing.
