Rhône Refinement
Domaine Ogier’s modern, purpose-built winery in Côte Rôtie creates exceptional wines.
Côte Rôtie consists of steep slopes; terraced vineyards; high levels of sunshine from mostly south-east facing vineyards; protection from northerly winds; and poor, stony soils with excellent drainage result in producing fully ripe grapes from this tiny appellation of only 276 ha.
The most northerly of the Rhône vineyards it produces exquisite and refined red wines predominantly from the Syrah grape.
With a challenging topography, most of the terraced slopes are tended by hand as the rows are far too narrow to accommodate any form of mechanisation. Yields are low at 40hl/ha with wines aged in small barrels of 225L, or in larger demi-muids of 500-600L. Often combinations of both. There has been a move away from new oak to create softer wines that are less full-bodied than the other appellations in the Northern Rhône.
It would not be too much of a leap to state that Côte Rôtie is the Pomerol of the Rhône.
Domaine Ogier. Since taking over the reins from his father in 2003, Stéphane has established himself as one of the new generation of Rhône producers who are carving out an international following for the domaine's wines.
Prior to 1987 the family, who had been growers in Ampuis over seven generations, had sold their grapes to Guigal and Chapoutier, and it was Stéphane's father, Michel, who started to vinify their own grapes. Stéphane joined his father in 1997 after studying in Beaune and working in other regions.
He has been acquiring new parcels and brings a Burgundian approach to the region’s terroir. He works with multiple lieux-dits, vinifying each separately and using oak sparingly. He has built a reputation as one of Côte Rôtie’s most highly respected winemakers, as well as making excellent wines from neighbouring appellations and from family plots in the Southern Rhône - three of the four recommendations below come from appellations outside Côte Rôtie. There is no fixed plot or manifesto here, but rather an inquisitive mind that assesses each vintage and adjusts the formula for that year. Tasting a few bottles and you will quickly sense the direction of travel: there is a real depth and a quality focus from this domaine.
Unquestionably, a fascinating part of the visit was the barrel tasting of the 2022s. Theo, his Greek oenologist, who guided our tasting across an array of wines that began to reveal the potential of this vintage. I am looking forward to assessing these wines when they are blended and bottled early in 2024 at a London tasting. I envisage the results will be outstanding.
The selection put forward for this missive falls into four categories: everyday, opulent, dinner party, and indulgent. Three reds and a white from Condrieu.
1 - Everyday: Côtes du Rhône, Les Temps est Venu 2021
Montrachet - £14.00 - per bottle and a host of other merchants.
There are dozens and dozens and dozens of Côtes du Rhônes on the market. However, just occasionally, one stands much taller than the rest. This wine from Ogier is one such example. As soon as your senses hit the nose of this wine, then you’re engaged. Concentrated fruits - strawberries, cherries and violets - with a hint of coffee, then just a beautifully balanced palate, with long elegant fruits replicating wha the nose had revealed; delicate levels of sweetness; the Grenache and Syrah pairing works well with a smoothness that is definitely full-bodied. Tempting and great value. If somebody popped in, pulling the cork on this wine, would be a very desirable option. Soft, charming and enticing.
2 - Opulence: Condrieu, La Combe de Malleval 2021
Montrachet - £49.00 - per bottle and a few other merchants.
Condrieu probably sits in the Marmite camp: you either love it or hate it. However, this is not like most wines from this ridiculously small appellation. The vintage probably helps as the acidity levels are much stronger than most years, and these create a well-defined balance between what can often be over-ripe flavours of intense apricots, melons and ripe pears, to an harmonious balance that is intriguing and captivating. Really delicious. It lingers. I would serve it with Serrano Ham or tapas laden with olive oil-drenched humous or lots of tahini and lemon juice. Pre-dinner it would work to perfection. Drink over the next couple of years.
3 - Dinner Party: Saint-Joseph, Le Passage 2020
Montrachet - £27.00 - per bottle and a few other merchants
I like this wine. Really, really like it. If you were serving a cold beef salad over lunch this summer then this would work to perfection. It will unquestionably age, but it has so much charm at the moment, then it will be very difficult to put this into the cellar for a few more years when it is so enjoyable today. From 35-year-old Syrah vines grown at altitude it is very expressive with flavours of black cherries, blackberries and and blackcurrants. The nose is highly contagious. You just want to savour it over and over again. Silky tannins add to the texture.
4 - Indulgence: Côte Rôtie Sélection de 9 Lieux-Dits 2018
Montrachet - £1,233.00 - per case of 9 bottles
During the visit I noticed a case of nine bottles from all of the sites in Côte Rôtie where Ogier owned vines. In Burgundian terms, this would be the equivalent of buying nine single bottles from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards within a village such as Gevrey-Chambertin, but all from a single vintage and producer.
The indulgence is to buy one, or two, or three cases of these nine wines, and then serve theses intoxicating brews as the focus of a lunch or dinner party in 2028. Three wines with each of the three courses would provide one of the most memorable tastings imaginable. Assessing what food to serve with them would require considerable research and assessment. Perhaps Sautéed Foie Gras, Crispy Duck with Truffle Sauce; followed by Ballotine of Guinea Fowl, Jersey Royals, Spring Vegetables, Suprême Sauce; and a savoury to finish of Field Mushrooms on Sourdough Toast, with Bone Marrow Butter. You would want the wines to be the star of the show!
These cases are available from the winery, if you happen to be passing Lyon this summer, or directly from Montrachet: there were only 957 of the 9-bottle cases made.
It was a delight to be introduced to these wines by Theo, Stéphane’s Greek oenologist. His detailed explanations and assessments of how each wine was crafted was inspiring, thoughtful and revealing. Having bought in and sampled a number of these wines on my return, I like this estate for its purity and single-minded focus.
The wines are available from Montrachet as well as Berrys, Laithwaites and a host of other merchants. Buy a bottle or two, where single bottles are available, and assess if this style is to your liking.
