Shellfish & Sauvignon Blanc
The prompt for this missive, to find a perfect wine to accompany shellfish, came from two old friends who had been taking a holiday in South Africa around a year ago.
They were having lunch on the terrace of the Delair Graff Winery, perched between Franschhoek and Stellenbosch. The setting of this terrace is probably the finest location of any winery restaurant, anywhere in the world. Have a look at the restaurant’s web site - Delair - and you’ll get the picture. Also, it’s a superb place to stay - the rooms certainly deliver a very reassuringly luxurious environment.
Back to the task in hand, having enjoyed the winery’s Sauvignon Blanc, our mates made this delicious Delair Graff brew their ‘house wine’ with seafood for the last year. Sadly, it seems to have run out - probably between vintages - and they asked me for a recommendation.
The Delair Graff Sauvignon is much softer than the intense offerings from New Zealand. They were looking for significantly lighter acidity, combined with delicate fruit and a smooth, rich finish, matched with medium acidity as a foil to accompany shellfish, and finally within the price range of £15-£25 per bottle.
The traditional ‘homeland’ for the Sauvignon Blanc is the Central Vineyards of the Loire - Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé - and Bordeaux. I had started the research exploring wines from these French regions within the specified price parameters. However, after two tastings, nothing arrived that I would be comfortable to serve at home, and certainly not to recommend in a missive.
Therefore, on Friday evening a rather extended panel assembled to work through eight Sauvignon Blancs from the New World - full list at the end of this missive - priced between £9.99 and £25.95.
Two very clear winners emerged, and in addition, the wine at £9.99 was received with a high degree of enthusiasm by the majority of the dozen panelists who deemed it unquestionably good value.
Shaw + Smith - Adelaide Hills, Australia 2020
Majestic - £16.99 - mixed case price
Settling down with a plate of crevette grise, a dozen oysters, freshly caught langoustines, dressed crab, or a piping hot plate of paella, then this wine would bring a smile to your face. I can totally understand why wine writers consider this to be a benchmark for Adelaide Sauvignons, as Shaw + Smith have been making this wine for more than 30 years, and fine-tuned the formula to near perfection. Green apple skins, gooseberries, melons with a richness and lively body that is definitely not over-powering, delivering balance and refinement.
Constantia Glen, Two - Constantia, Cape Town, South Africa 2020
Berrys - £25.95
A single mark separated these two wines. From my perspective, this was the star of the show. Although drinking well at the moment, it is definitely a wine that will enhance over the next five years, perhaps longer, and evolve into something very special. Fragrant peach, quince, dried apricots. There is a tension between the ripe fruit and acidity that sits very comfortably in the mouth and then it just sits and sits: gorgeous length. This blend of 71% Sauvignon Blanc and 29% Sémillon has been barrel-fermented. It’s a class act that has a distinct richness and length. Worth the extra few pounds and a few more years in your cellar.
Errazuriz – Aconcagua Valley, Chile 2021
Majestic - £9.99 - mixed case price
Lifts the senses. Very much a New World Sauvignon Blanc but not with the strident intensity of flavours that exists in other wines made from this grape. Tropical flavours of gooseberries and mangoes. Appealing acidity, but not over-bearing, and well balanced with the fruit. Medium finish. For the price, exceptional. Straightforward for lemon sole, plaice, and cod. Crisp and fresh.
This third tasting to find the replacement for the Delair Graff has delivered the result intended, and these three wines would work with fish dishes to perfection.
Full list of wines tasted:
Errazuriz 2021 – Chile – Majestic - £9.99
Klein Constantia 2021 – South Africa – Majestic – £12.99
Petaluma 2021 – Australia – Majestic – £14.99
Shaw + Smith – Australia – Majestic - £16.99
Steenberg 2022 – South Africa – Waitrose – £16.99
Constantia Glen 2021 – South Africa – Berrys – £18.95
Ghost Corner, The Bowline – South Africa – Waitrose – £19.99
Constantia Glen, Two 2020 – South Africa – Berrys – £25.95
These mini shallots caught my eye to be included in a prawn risotto or paella.
This stall in Borough Market can often make 9 of these vast paella dishes every day. There was a very long queue waiting for a dish of this excellent ‘street’ food.
