Bordeaux Vintage

The extreme temperatures and drought seen this summer had a strong influence on the wines produced across Europe. Therefore, I thought it might be interesting to pen a few missives on the likely impact this will have on the wines from a number of regions. Firstly, this summary on Bordeaux, followed by an assessment of Eastern France - Champagne, Burgundy and Rhône - and finally on the vintage in England.

The information contained here has been culled from reports, articles and conversations.

This summer had seen the driest July in France since 1959, with many wine regions initially predicting harvests below the ten-year average, and France's governing wine body issuing an exceptional and unheard of permission allowing growers to irrigate vines in certain areas, including Pomerol. Water restrictions were in place in 93 out of 96 regional departments across the county, and financial losses across agriculture in Europe were estimated to be running into billions of euros.

At certain times of the year a degree of water stress can be beneficial for quality, but prolonged dry spells may also hamper vine development and reduce yields.

There was a warning in the UK from the CEO at Laithwaites/Direct Wines that the hot weather would see lower yields that might see European wines increase in price by 10% when combined with other factors such as energy costs.

Interestingly, the overall impact across France, as viewed in mid-August, was an increase in volume of between 13% and 21% compared with the frost-hit 2021 vintage, with the final figure of 17% being confirmed in early November. Bordeaux was a couple of points below the five-year average and up 12% on 2021. So the early predictions did not hit vineyards as badly as had been originally reported.

Winter vines in Saint-Estèphe.

Vineyard management was critical during the summer. For example, green harvesting was taking place across the region to remove bunches that had been impacted by the heat - "sunburnt" - that would also have a likely impact on final volumes.

Despite the heat, the drought, plus April frosts, and significant hail in June, optimistic soundings regarding quality were beginning to come from a number of leading properties across Bordeaux even with the relatively early start to the harvest: white grapes were being collected as early at 16th August, Merlot from the beginning of September.

To one final element, there was also concern regarding forest fires that had broken out in mid-July near Archacon, where 20,000 hectares of woodland were destroyed, that the smoke from these fires would cause smoke taint, but this concern does not appear to have materialised.

Pomerol: Château La Fleur-Pétrus from Château L'Évangile.

However, "A historic climatic year and a very promising 2022 vintage expected in Bordeaux," said Bordeaux's trade body: Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB). Well you would expect them to say that, but most commentators agree that this vintage has potential. Comparisons have been made with 2003, that was written off at the time as lacking in acidity and unlikely to be one for long-term consumption. That initial assessment of 2003 has proven incorrect as many wines have lasted the test of time and a number are still drinking very well today.

Twenty years on, with properties far more aware of the changing climate, has seen advances in technical knowledge that can manage these warmer conditions.

The jury is out, and it will be a few months before the en primeur tastings start and the merchants can assess this unusual vintage, but from what I have read, I am cautiously optimistic.

So, my assessment ahead of any tasting?

Style. Blousy, I think might sum it up. Many will use the phrase ‘Californian’ to describe this vintage. The wines will almost certainly lack acidity, but with rich fruits and excellent tannins then they will come forward quickly and be ready fairly early.

Longevity. Not one for the 50-year plus category.

Price. I think we shall see a sound increase over the 2021s even allowing for the world’s economic crisis. But, I think it might be a very drinkable vintage, with richness and concentration. Probably, right-bank will be the show-stoppers: I think the Merlot-based wines will attract attention.

So, speculation on my behalf, and we shall see how it evolves.