Wild Mushrooms
With wild mushrooms in season, what better way to present an array of these wondrously tempting autumn treats than within a risotto, garnished with finely chopped parsley, crumbling parmesan, and partnered with New World Chardonnays.
The Italians describe the texture of a risotto as "la onda": a wave that slowly rolls to shore. The buttery, creamy stock that has reached perfection in a gently simmering copper frying pan, with the delicate, ongoing folding of the rice back and forth, creates an exquisite balance that is an essential dish for this season.
A Chardonnay from Argentina, Australia, Chile, or the West Coast, that has a measure more richness and body than a Mâcon or Chablis, hits the mark for me. You need that lift of body and weight to sit alongside the opulence of the intense, warming flavours of a well-constructed risotto.
Therefore, to Majestic to acquire a few brews that met that criteria were assembled for a tasting. Four were under the £20 mark and three above it, and out of the seven, three were selected.
Argentina - Catena Chardonnay 2019
Majestic - £11.99 - per bottle in a mix of six.
Having visited this domaine in Mendoza on three occasions over the last fifteen years, I am always impressed by the consistent quality of the wines they produce across their extensive range. Light, fragrant nose with hints of apples and pears, and a fine balance of citrus fruits with medium texture and finish on the palate.
Argentina - Catena Zapata 'Catena Alta' Chardonnay 2019
Majestic - £23.99 - per bottle in a mix of six.
The 'upmarket' version of the first wine and worth considerably more in terms of value at double the price. Will certainly keep to 2026 and probably a few years beyond. Fermented in 500-litre barrels, there is a complexity on the nose that combines the oak with citrus flavours, white-stone fruits and hints of tropical components. Palate is superbly balanced with great length and the complexity builds as the wine evolves. The acidity and texture are in complete harmony.
South Africa - Rustenberg ‘Five Soldiers’ Chardonnay 2021
Majestic - £30.00 - per bottle in a mix of six.
I've been following this wine for years and it hits the mark every time they launch a new vintage. Vibrant tones of oak, spices and tangy citrus fruits on the nose. Vanilla, melon, pears, lemon, and oak all embrace each other on the palate to create a really superb glass of wine that has length and complexity in abundance. It deserves the consistently high ratings from wine journalists around the world, and at this price competes well with Chardonnays from traditional regions in terms of value. It is a real treat to drink today, but this will keep and grow in complexity for another four or more years.
These three Chardonnays are excellent examples of New World creations that are readily available either online and probably in your local Majestic store.
à votre santé - David