Puttanesca & Chianti

Puttanesca Sauce. Perhaps invented in Naples in mid-20th century, there are recipes for similar sauces dating back to 1844. According to the Professional Union of Italian Pasta Makers, it became popular in the 1960s. However, a recent article in an Italian newspaper suggests it was invented in the 1950s by Sandro Petti, co-owner of Rancio Fellone, a fashionable Ischian restaurant.

Puttana translates as whore or prostitute, and it is thought that the dish originated in one of the Naples' bordellos at the turn of the 20th century, so literally “whore’s pasta” is the final interpretation. One version has it that the dish was cheap and quick to prepare between clients. Another is that the aroma was thought to lure customers into the brothels and that the dish was served to them.

Whatever the origins it is a delicious concoction of tomatoes, onions, anchovies, olives, garlic, capers, olive oil, with optional chilli peppers, basil, and oregano. A dish that has many interpretations and works to perfection with large pasta, such as mezze maniche rigate. With a sprinkling of parmesan and a touch of lemon juice.

As you may have noticed, not all the ingredients in the image are from Italy: Yorkshire pasta, Spanish anchovies, and Moroccan olives - links to pasta and anchovies below, olives from Waitrose.

What better wine to go with this dish than a superb Chianti. Perhaps a wine that has been overlooked somewhat over recent decades as many of us first encountered it in straw-encased, strangely shaped bottles, in the late 1970s at many simple Italian restaurants across England.

Chianti comes from Tuscany, and is mainly, but not exclusively, made from the Sangiovese grape. There are dozens of options on the market, and I thought I would focus on Lea & Sandeman as I have always been impressed by their Italian selection, alongside a few from Waitrose and one from Majestic. Eight wines were assembled, and not all these wines are designated Chianti, but they come from a predominant Sangiovese blend and made in Tuscany. Full list below.

Sangiovese is the most widely planted grape in Italy – around 55,000 hectares or 10% of all vines in Italy.

Four out of the eight were superb: a very high percentage for most of these tastings. One was the best sub-£20 wine I have tasted this year. All of these wines are available by the bottle, but I have priced them based on case rates. There is more information on the definition for wines from Tuscany after the reviews of the individual four wines.

Chianti Classico Poggerino 2020

Lea & Sandeman - £18.50 - case price.

This is a superb wine, and I think is the most interesting and complex wine for under £20 that I have tasted in 2022. Also, it will happily evolve for another 5 years or more. The panel tasted it on the Friday evening, and I re-tasted with our son-in-law on the Saturday evening, receiving accolades from all. As the Lea & Sandeman web site states “This wine, that Piero calls his 'business card', is one of the most reliably delicious and complex wines you will find for £20.” Cassis and wild raspberry on the nose; fine tannins wrapped around ripe black fruit with tones of light minerals on the palate; length that sits comfortably and evolves as the wine opens up and then develops hints of leather and mocha.

Chianti Classico Castagnoli 2019

Lea & Sandeman - £19.50 - case price.

A classic and rather refined Chianti. Lighter than you might expect. Plums and dark cherries are very evident on the nose; there is a precision on the palate, perhaps even a touch of sweetness in the fruit that sits comfortably with the light acidity and tannins; good length and finish that would work to perfection with a rich puttanesca sauce.

Chianti Classico Riserva 'Terrazze' Castagnoli 2015

Lea & Sandeman - £26.50 - case price.

This is delicious from the moment you put the glass to your nose. It abounds with style, quality, finesse and you just want to have another taste to make sure it is as good as your taste buds have indicated. The tertiary flavours of a wine now seven years old are just outstanding as the hints of dried fruits, dark cherries, walnuts, and oak all rest with fine tannins in a complex finish that goes on and on. A truly excellent glass of wine that is drinking to a high pedigree today but will continue its journey for another two to three years.

Chianti Classico 'Nuovo' Poggerino 2019

Lea & Sandeman - £27.95 - case price.

Simply needs time, and I completely understand why the Lea & Sandeman web site waxes lyrical about this brew, and states that the winemaker, Piero Lanza, is one of Chianti's greatest young ambassadors. If you enjoy Tuscan wines crafted to a very high level then a case of this in the cellar will be a very rewarding drink in five to ten years, and much better value than any Brunello di Montalcino that I have tasted recently.

Chianti Classico

Italy has developed a system of wine law on the model of the French appellation d'origine contrôlée system, as later incorporated into European Union law. 1967 they introduced the DOC system (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), with a slighter higher classification defined within a DOCG category (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) with stricter rules, for example requiring a lower yield.

The Chianti Classico DOCG is an area of hills that sits between Sienna and Florence where the wines must have a minimum of 80% Sangiovese. However, most wines are around 90% Sangiovese with a wide choice of additional varieties, both local or international, for example Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. No white varieties are permitted in the blend.

The finest wines come from grapes grown between 200-500m above sea level as the diurnal range contributes to cool nights, lengthening the growing season and promoting full ripeness combined with high acidity.

Yorkshire Pasta Company - click here

Brindisa for Ortiz Anchovies - click here