Hotel Endsleigh
If you go directly north from Plymouth, and directly east from Port Issac, you will find a rather remarkable hotel alongside the banks of the River Tamar: Endsleigh.
Originally built as a shooting lodge for the Duke of Bedford in 1810, it sits on a prominent position a few hundred feet above the river. Due to its seclusion the only noise you can hear on a November day is the torrent of water cascading down the valley.
There is an utterly charming 'Arts & Crafts' 1930s feel about the entire environment. Slightly shabby, marginally worn at the edges, warmingly comfortable beds and rooms, scrumptiously scrummy food, an inspired wine list, luxuriously welcoming sofas and chairs, with an impeccably engaging and charming service from all the team running this enclave of tranquility.
It was a total delight to spend two nights here, with the intention to return at different times of the year to experience the constantly changing garden.
The garden is extraordinary. Take the tour with the immensely experienced head gardener, Ben, and wait to be marvelled at the work that has taken place over the last two centuries. The work on the garden started in 1814, and was finished at some point during the 1850s. Waterfalls, ancient trees, unusual plantings mesmerise the hour or so walk around the sculpted landscape that also includes a minuscule dairy built for the Duke's wife. At certain points the rose and clematis covered walk, the magnolias, the rhododendrons, the changing of autumn colours across the valley, will all capture the senses over a twelve-month period. There is a Repton 'Red Book' for visitors to read and assess how the garden was planned. Just a brilliantly clever concept in presenting garden design.
The food was excellent. Local produce crafted to perfection, served in a cosy panelled room that oozed heritage. The wine list - click here - had a high Italian focus, and the knowledgeable sommelier, Christof, was at hand to answer any questions. A small but very good selection by the glass.
There are only 19 rooms, so everything is on a fairly small scale. Bought by Olga Polizzi in 2004, this now forms part of the Polizzi Collection that also includes The Star in East Sussex and The Tresanton in South Cornwall.
It is worth a visit on its own, but if you are heading for Rock, Polzeith or Paidstow, then a couple of nights here en route either way, or both, will be a wonderful and memorable addition to that excursion.
The calm, the location, and the heritage sit well together.
It's a place where you might choose to do nothing. Or, sit in a chair, alongside a warming fire, with that book that you've meant to open since last Christmas; where you might take a sketch pad with a few pencils and find a secluded spot; even pick up an analogue camera with a roll of black and white Ilford film.
One could spend a lot of time here.
