Autumnal Magnums
Autumn has definitely arrived. The trees in Hampshire seem to be taking their time changing colour, but the combination of chilly mornings, moisture laden cobwebs hanging off trees and bushes, earthy aromas of mushrooms hanging in the air when walking, definitely support the shortening days.
Therefore, from a seasonal food perspective, celeriac remoulade, chutneys and hearty reds to accompany scotch eggs, pork pies, cold meats, sausages and cheddar seem to be the order of the day.
And what a palate the chutney maker has to conjure with. Apples, tomatoes, onions, muscovado sugar, raisins, ginger, cinnamon sticks, cumin seeds, garlic, turmeric, paprika, grated ginger, coriander, chillis, and umpteen more exotic items.
To support these seasonal delights, I feel magnums are always a welcome sight on a brisk day, and definitely set the tone when joining mates for a long lunch or supper. Two have been evaluated over the last week: one from the Southern Rhône and one from Rioja, the first available from Yapp Brothers and the latter from Majestic.
Two have been evaluated over the last week: one from the Southern Rhône and one from Rioja, the first available from Yapp Brothers and the latter from Majestic.
Gigondas: Domaine du Grand Montmirail 'Vieilles Vignes' 2019
Yapp Brothers - £49.95 - per magnum.
The velvety texture of this classic blend of Grenache and Syrah really meets the changing season to perfection. Plums and red currants abound on the palate as it slips around your tongue and brings an instant smile to your face. Full-bodied and elaborate that would sit extraordinarily well alongside a rich pork pie or cold beef. Is drinking well now, but will certainly keep for another five or more years.
Rioja Reserva Viña Ardanza 2015 Magnum, La Rioja Alta
Majestic - £43.49 - per magnum.
Yes, this old favourite of mine is being plugged one more time. This exquisite wine from this superb vintage, when delivered in magnums, is really worth every penny. A group of friends were staying and this was embraced with focused enthusiasm over a richly flavoured cottage pie. 78% Tempranillo and 22% Garnacha with grapes picked mid-October delivers a spicy mid-palate with plenty of tannin and fruit in perfect harmony that cries out for strongly flavoured food. The perfect autumn wine.
Grenache and Garnacha. Same grape, just one spelling in French and one in Spanish. The origins of this grape are under dispute. The Spanish claim it originated in Arágon, while the Italians maintain it comes from Sardinia, where it is known as Cannonau. For me, its real home is the Southern Rhône where it is one of the 13 official grape varieties used to make Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and is often the primary component (Châteauneuf-du-Pape became the first French appellation contrôlée region in 1936). Gigondas, only a short distance from its more illustrious neighbour, has a requirement that a maximum of 80% Grenache can be used in the blend from this appellation.
It is a superb grape that matures quickly and will still be drinking a decade or more later, creating distinctive and really scrummy wines.
The town of Gigondas was founded as a recreational site for soldiers from the Roman Empire's Second Legion. I think they may have approved of this wine.
Also, what might be of interest is that Yapp are doing half-bottles of the Gigondas. Priced at £12.25. If you did not want to open a full bottle one evening, then these halves would meet that brief flawlessly. Just a passing thought!
